Thursday, March 4, 2010

A Tale of Two Black Bean and Squash Soups, Part One

This is the first part of a story of two very similar soups.
They are both black bean and squash soups,
yet they are very different in their making and their presentation. And I think they are both absolutely delicious.

I have both the original "The Vegetarian Epicure" and "The New Vegetarian Epicure",
so imagine my delight when I saw that Anna Thomas had a new cookbook out called
"Love Soup". Which is perfect for me, because I truly do love soup. I also love beans, so after thumbing through the book a bit, I found a black bean and squash soup that looked very interesting. I have a short memory sometimes, and had forgotten about the other black bean soup, until I tasted this one!

This incarnation of black bean and squash soup will take you a couple of hours to put together.
This is the type of soup that you are going to start on a lazy Sunday afternoon,
when all you have to do is read the newspaper and relax. You could substitute canned black beans, and frozen butternut squash, to similar results. But I hope that you will take the time to make this from scratch once.

I love the way fresh vegetables look when they are sitting and ready to go in a dish.
Doesn't this butternut squash look good?


And will you laugh at me if I tell you that I enjoy running my fingers through chopped vegetables and beans? I feel like Scrooge, playing with his coins. The textures make me smile.


The only thing that I dislike about soup is that it is not the most photogenic subject.
Especially bean soups that have been pureed.
Although this may not be the most beautiful pot of soup, it sure does tastes good!


This soup is quite sweet, but in a good way. I added a generous seasoning of Sriracha, and Patrick added a touch of Smack my Ass, our favorite hot sauce from a fantastic Mexican
better-than-fast-food restaurant called Tijuana Flats. Unfortunately there are none in the Missouri area, so we have to order our hot sauce online. If you have a moment, check out their manifesto, which makes me laugh every time I read it! I served this with my favorite cornbread, and the red cabbage an apple salad from "Love Soup".


Black Bean and Squash Soup
from Love Soup by Anna Thomas

1 1/4 cups dried black beans
4-5 cloves garlic, peeled
6 fresh epazote leaves or 1 1/2 teaspoon crumbled, dried epazote ( I omitted)
1 1/2 teaspoons sea salt, plus more to taste
1 small kabocha or butternut squash (1 1/4 - 1 1/2 pounds)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 yellow onion, chopped
1 bay leaf
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
1 large stalk celery, finely chopped
1-2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and finely chopped
1 scant tablespoon cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 1/2 cups vegetable broth
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

garnish with:
fruity green olive oil
crumbled fresh white cheese such as queso fresco

Rinse the black beans and combine them in a large soup pot with 7 cups water, the peeled garlic cloves, and the epazote. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer the beans, covered, for at least an hour, or until they are tender. The time will vary with the age of the beans. When they are tender but not mushy, add a teaspoon of salt. Using a slotted spoon, lift out about a cup of the beans and put them aside.

While the beans are cooking, preheat the oven to 400F. Cut the squash in half, scrape out the seeds, and lay the halves cut side down on a lightly oiled baking pan. Roast the squash for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until it is soft. Allow it to cool slightly, then scoop out all the soft pulp.

At the same time, heat the olive oil in a skillet. Add the chopped onion, the bay leaf, and a pinch of salt, and gently saute over medium-low heat, stirring often, for about 25 minutes, or until the onion is soft and golden brown. Remove the bay leaf.

When the beans are tender, add the chopped carrot, celery, and jalapeno peppers to the beans and their broth and simmer for about 10 to 12 more minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Add the roasted squash, the caramelized onion, the cumin, and the vegetable broth.

Allow the soup to cool slightly, then puree it in a blender, in batches, or with an immersion blender, until it is smooth. Return the soup to the pot and add the reserved whole beans and the lemon juice. Taste, and correct the seasoning with more salt if needed.

Serve the soup hot with a thick drizzle of fruity olive oil and a sprinkle of crumbled white cheese on top of each serving.

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